Infinity Cutting Tools are a manufacturer of various
cutting products, including saw blades, router bits and planer blades, to
name a few. We have reviewed their Combo-max saw blade in the past, and it
proved to be a quality blade, one which we still use regularly in the OTR
We have since received requests to review their fine
cutting and miter blades, so we grabbed one of each, tested them over many
weeks, and now can deliver the results...
Infinity Miter Max Blade
The Miter Max blade is designed primarily to be used in a dedicated
Miter Saw (also commonly called a Drop Saw, or Chop Saw). The Miter Max is
available in three blade diameters to fit common Miter Saws. These are:
- 8" - 8 1/2" (203mm - 216mm)
- 10 Inch (254mm)
- 12 Inch (305mm)
Most shop miter saws will either be of the 10 inch or 12
inch type. The 8 inch varieties feature a 5/8" arbor with 60 teeth. The 10
inch blades also feature a 5/8" arbor but have 80 teeth. The 12 inch
blade (which is the one we tested) features a 1" arbor and a total of 90
teeth. The blade is labeled as "Made in Italy".
The steel body of the blade is quite rigid, which helps
resist warping during a cut. This is important, particularly with a larger
12 inch blade as these can have a tendency to warp slightly, particularly
when making full blade capacity cuts into hardwood. This blade actually
has a narrower kerf (just .110") and body than the Bosch blade (.125")
that came with my miter saw, but it seems to resist warp just as well as
the Bosch blade in most softwoods and smaller pieces of hardwood, such as
trim pieces or narrower mouldings. But you will come across many tasks
over time where you will need to cut decent sized hardwood, or dense
hardwood trim pieces, and care must be taken to cut slowly and surely to
prevent any issues with blade load and warp.
The blades are treated with what Infinity call a "Nickel
Armor" coating. This is designed to help prevent rust and resin/pitch
buildup on the blade body with use. Does it work? Since my other Infinity
saw blade has the same Nickel Armor coating, and I have had it for more
than 12 months now, I can say that, yes indeed it works, and it works
remarkably well at that. My Combo-Max blade is virtually free from rust
at present and no sign of any noticeable resin or pitch buildup on the
blade body. Of course, since the teeth of the blades are Tungsten Carbide
Tipped (TCT), they are not immune to resin and pitch buildup over time,
but with even a fair amount of pitch accumulated on the teeth, the body of
the blade has remained resin/pitch free! This helps retain blade cutting
accuracy and reduce blade heat buildup through the pitch/resin causing
excess friction on the material being cut. Overall, the Nickel Armor is
certainly doing its job well, and I expect this to be the case with this
Miter Max blade, even though I have only been using it for 5-6 weeks at
time of writing this review.
All Ininfity "Miter Max" blades feature a 5-degree negative tooth
rake. This means that the face of each tooth is angled backward 5 degrees
from the vertical plane. A negative rake is desirable on a miter saw
because the teeth will not tend to pull the material into the blade (as
can be the case with a positive tooth rake blade), say on a rip cutting
blade. This allows more teeth to engage the material per unit of measure
when cutting, resulting in a cleaner cut and helps keep the material set
firm against the miter saw fence. And clean, accurate cuts are
essential for trim work, or obtaining an accurate angle cut finish. The
teeth on the blade are configured in an ATB + Raker configuration. This
means that every second cutting tooth is beveled on alternating sides, and
on this particular blade, that happens to be at a 30 degree angle. The
raker tooth is not beveled, having a flat grind top. This tooth tends to
help draw waste material from the kerf and result in cleaner cutting with
less heat buildup. Essentially it is "raking" the waste away.
A total of 4 larger expansion slots are found on the Miter Max
blade around the circumference, plus an additional 8 slots milled in the blade body
closer to the center. These are designed to prevent the blade warping if the blade body
heats up and expands. They provide a gap relief to accommodate any blade
body expansion. Normally, you won't actually see blades expand in use, or
even after use. Expansion is minimal, and I have never really noticed this
happen, but it does happen on a micro level that is not readily
noticeable, hence these expansion slots provide the relief to help prevent
With the blade mounted in my 12 inch miter saw, I set about making
some specific test cuts in hardwood and softwood, at various angles, and
at various bevels. I can't really compare the quality of cut directly with
what I was getting off my standard Bosch blade because the Infinity Miter
Max blade has more than twice the teeth as the Bosch blade, so naturally,
the Infinity will give a cleaner edge when cut. I found that in softwoods,
the blade performs almost flawlessly, and there is very little chipout at
the back of the cut where the piece is not directly supported by the
fence. Of course, the blade is still just 6 weeks old at time of writing
this and still very sharp, so you would expect less chipout over a more
used and duller blade, but I achieved virtually flawless cuts in softwood
when cutting regular miters and pretty much all angles. In hardwood, as
mentioned above, slow and steady won the race. If I tried to rush the cut
and force the blade somewhat to cut, rather than allowing it to cut at its
own speed, I did find what appeared to be some evidence of blade flex, giving a less than
perfect flat cut. The error is only very slight and not really visible to
the naked eye, but with a good square, you can spot that thin line of
light that shows an error. When the cut action is slowed down,
particularly with thicker hardwoods, the error can be greatly reduced,
even eliminated with proper care and attention. Of course, you must also consider any blade arbor wobble that
might be present in your saw. This too could have an effect on cut quality
and finish. I checked the blade for flatness and it appears to be flat, so
perhaps it is indeed a little runout on my miter saw that has developed
For bevel cuts the blade is generally cutting more
material than with regular square cuts, so there is more load on the
blade. However, basically the same results applied for bevel cuts as with
regular cuts with the Infinity blade, i.e. little or no problem with
softwoods, but occasional or potential small errors in hardwood if
technique poor or cutting speed too fast.
I also tried crosscutting some melamine and laminated
material just to check how much chipout on the edges would occur.
Surprisingly the top side of the board where is no support "behind the
blade" showed very little chipout and delivered a smooth edge. This is to
be expected somewhat given the blade is still relatively new and ultra
sharp. This may change as the blade dulls. Generally speaking though, I
rarely cut laminated boards or melamine on the miter saw. I have a
dedicated laminate cutting blade for the table saw that handles these
Overall the Miter Max blade has met my expectations for
a high-quality miter saw blade, and is in line, quality and
performance-wise, with the Combo-Max table saw blade I already own.
Prices and details for the Miter Max blades are shown
below (Prices in US Dollars).
Infinity Ultra Smooth 10 Inch Laminate Saw Blade
And now to the 010-080 Ultra Smooth Laminate Blade by Infinity. A
laminate blade is essential if you have a lot of laminate or melamine
cutting to do, or even for regular cross-cutting or miter trimming on the
table saw if you need an ultra-sharp edge.
The 010-080 is a 10" blade with a regular .125" blade
kerf. It has 80 TCT teeth, so it's a true crosscutting or composite
material blade. Trying to rip cut with it would be somewhat
counter-productive and a waste of precious time. The blade features a 5/8"
This blade features the same Nickel Armor coating as the
Miter Max blade. I won't repeat the benefits of this (see above blade
review) but looks like another rust-free blade added to my collection.
What is somewhat different with the Ultra Smooth blade,
and perhaps the primary reason it can deliver smooth, chip-free cuts in
melamine and laminate is the tooth design, and in particular, the bevel
angle of each tooth. The blade features alternative tooth bevels (ATB) and
each blade has a 40 degree bevel! 40 degrees is quite a steep bevel. Most
blades might have a 15 or 20 degree bevel in general, and some with no
bevel at all, so 40 degrees is quite different. The large bevel angle
helps to slice through the material, rather than punch through it.
Laminates need a good slicing angle to produce a clean, smooth cut, so the
40 degree tooth bevels provide this slicing action during the cut.
To help feeding of material with lower resistance, the
blade teeth are set with a +5 degree rake. This means the teeth are angled
slightly forward of the vertical plane of the tooth by 5 degrees. This
angle helps draw the material into the blade slightly, so less feed
pressure is required by the user. Positive rake generally also means a
slightly more "aggressive" cutting action, although I'm not sure that is
the best word to describe it!
For this blade, my tests composed cutting chipboard-cored melamine
boards, MDF-cored melamine boards, chipboard cored wood veneered board,
and standard plywood.
Because the melamine and laminated items all have a
composite material core, there is no actual "grain" in the material, or no
grain direction I should say. So you can cut it virtually any way you like
and get the same cutting results. With the chipboard cored melamine, I
test cut many pieces then checked the cut-surface and edges. I was looking
for signs of chipout on the melamine material at the cut edge, or any
signs of the chipboard itself breaking off. A clean, smooth chipboard face
would indicate a good "slicing" cut, rather than a "punching" type cut.
Because the path of the blade teeth generally travel in a downward motion,
most of the chipout should, theoretically, occur on the underside of the
piece being cut. A zero-clearance insert will help support the piece here
to reduce chipout, but it doesn't always entirely eliminate it. So I ran
several pieces through the saw, and all up, made about 20 cuts in the
chipboard melamine. Result... Virtually chipout-free edges! Nothing really
visible to the naked eye on both sides of the material. You can tell those
high angle 40 degree bevels are really doing the job here. Both the edge
and the cut face are very clean and smooth.
Next up was the MDF-cored melamine. Again, similar
result. Very clean edges and very sharp too. You almost have to be careful
handling them. I re-cut more just before completing this review too (i.e
after the blades had 6 weeks of use) and the cut edges were still of a
very high quality.
The same results applied to the chipboard-cored wood veneered board. Both
the chipboard and veneer were sliced very cleanly and sharply.
Since plywood had a grain direction with each layer, the
blade tends to cut both with the grain and across the grain, depending on
the layer. Using the 010-080 blade, you can then see how well it cuts in
both grain directions. Examining the edge closely, there is little
noticeable difference between edge quality in the plywood layers. Both
cuts across the grain and with the grain in the respective layers come out
clean. I'd suspect with a good magnifying glass or microscope you might
notice some difference, but none that would affect the quality of a
woodworking joint in my opinion.
One task this blade does not do overly well is trenching
or dado cuts. You can indeed do them with the blade, but you end up with
the familiar rabbit ears on both sides of the cut due to the high bevel
angle and ATB design, and the bottom of the cut is not flat. You could
make multiple passes to attempt to flatten the bottom with different parts
of the blade tooth, but to me this is counter-productive if you have a lot
of dados or trenches to make and have a more suitable blade or dado set,
or even a router on hand. This is no fault of the blade itself of course.
It is not designed to perform such cuts.
Overall the Ultra-Smooth 010-080 Infinity Blade really
did live up to its title, delivering ultra-smooth, virtually chip-free
cuts in laminates and melamine/composite materials at a reasonable asking
price. It is certainly worthy of the Infinity branding.
Prices and details for the Ultra Smooth
Laminate blade is shown below (Price in US Dollars).
Both the Ultra Smooth Laminate blade and the Miter Max blades
impressed me with the results they delivered. I kind of expected them too,
since my Infinity Combo-Max blade has been a real workhorse in my shop.
You can see just by looking at the blade that it is a well-constructed and
very sharp piece of cutting gear, and with plenty of carbide material
onboard to allow many sharpenings in the future. These blades certainly
rank right up their with the best other manufacturers have to offer, like
CMT and Freud. It is definitely worth considering them when you next buy
blades, but check around with fellow woodworkers for their opinions too.
My opinion is just one of many.
Infinity USA Website -
Infinity Saw Blade Photos
All photos copyright onlinetoolreviews.com. Use without prior
written permission prohibited
The Infinity Miter Max blade
Two types of expansion slots...
ATB tooth configuration with raker on the Miter Max blade.
A piece of Australian hardwood (jarrah) with a very clean miter cut thanks
to the Miter Max.
The Infinity 010-080 Ultra Smooth Laminate Blade.
Expansion slots have a different design on this blade.
Note the very exaggerated 40 degree tooth bevels!
Test cut result using chipboard-cored wood veneered board and the Ultra
Smooth blade, cut across the grain of the timber veneer. Very sharp and
clean edge and face.