Kreg KMS7200 Precision Band Saw Fence Review
An 18 in aluminium fence that adjusts for blade drift, on a rail that bolts to most 14 in saws. It fixes resawing on machines that came with a stamped steel afterthought.
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Band saws are sold on depth of cut and sold short on fences. A 14 in saw that will happily resaw 6 in of hardwood often ships with a stamped fence that flexes, or with a fence that is square to the table and therefore fighting the blade.
That second point is the one worth understanding. Band saw blades do not cut parallel to the table’s slots. Each blade, depending on its set and sharpness, cuts along a line a degree or two off — blade drift. A fence fixed square to the table forces the work to feed at the wrong angle, and the result is a cut that wanders and a blade that heats.
The KMS7200 is adjustable for exactly this. You set the fence to the drift angle your current blade actually produces, lock it, and the blade tracks straight down the line for the whole cut. Change to a different blade and you reset it — a two-minute job that transforms how a band saw behaves.
What you get
An 18 in anodised aluminium fence with T-slots in both the face and the top, a mounting rail that sits below the table surface, a clamp block with a magnified lens cursor, a length of Kreg’s heavy-duty Trak, an adhesive-backed measuring tape and the hardware. It adjusts for perpendicularity as well as drift, and it comes off the saw without tools when you want the table clear.
The T-slots are what make it a platform rather than just a fence. Kreg’s 4-1/2 in and 7 in resaw guides bolt straight on, giving you a tall reference point for resawing, and stops mount in the top slot for repeat cuts.
Fitting
Kreg’s claim is that it fits most 14 in band saws out of the box, and there is a compatibility chart listing the specific models. That claim is accurate but worth reading carefully: for saws not on the chart, fitting means drilling a single hole in the aluminium mounting rail to match your table’s existing tapped holes. That is a ten-minute job with a drill press and a straightforward one by hand, but it is a modification, and it is best to know before the parcel arrives.
What it does not fix
A fence holds the work. It cannot compensate for a blade that is under-tensioned, tracking badly, or simply dull, and those problems produce symptoms that look a lot like a fence problem. Tension the blade properly, set the guides close, and use a sharp resaw blade with a low tooth count. Then add the fence, and the difference will be obvious.
What works
- It adjusts for blade drift — the fence face pivots so you can set it to the angle your blade actually wants to cut, which is the one adjustment that makes resawing repeatable
- T-slots in the face and the top take resaw guides (4-1/2 in and 7 in), stops and other accessories, so a tall resaw point is a bolt-on rather than a shop-made clamp-up
- The clamp block carries a magnified lens cursor over an adhesive tape, so you are reading a measurement rather than eyeballing a pointer
What doesn't
- Fitting is only drop-in on saws the compatibility chart covers — other machines need a hole drilled in the mounting rail, which is straightforward but is not what "fits most band saws" sounds like
- An 18 in fence is short for long ripping: it supports the cut well but does not extend past the table, so long stock needs outfeed support
- It cannot fix a saw with a badly tensioned or badly tracked blade — set the machine up first or the fence will just hold the workpiece steady while the blade wanders